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The
“lefkaritiko” (lace embroidery of Lefkara)
is the finest specimen that the needlecraft and the
folklore tradition of Cyprus have to show.
It is embroidery of great value that reflects the dynamism,
the sensitivity, and the power of observation of the
woman of Cyprus. The skilful hands of the needlewoman
manage to create perfect and artistically delivered
designs upon the fabric, which not even the hand of
the most skilful designer would have been able to deliver
in such detail, grace, rhythm, and harmony.
All
the designs of the lace embroideries from Lefkara are
inspired by nature and the environment, receiving a
characteristic form as the stitches are combined. Today’s
lace embroideries of Lefkara have evolved to a great
extend, other -more recent -elements having been added
to the stereotyped, old decorative, geometrical motifs.
So, a huge variety of embroideries with characteristic
names such as «athasi» (“almond”), «margarita», «makoukoudi»
(refers to a small weaving row), «mi me lismonei» (“forget
me not”), «tagiada» (a basic pattern in weaving), «potamos»
(“river”), «arvalotos» (latticed / riddled pattern),
«klonotos» (“branched”), «ammatotosò» (with eye-shaped
patterns), «arachnotos» (“spider-web”), «aplos» (“simple”),
«diplos» (“double”), «karouli» (“bobbin”), «miloudi»
(“small apple”), and many more swarm the local and foreign
market and become the main source of income for the
skilful female weaver of Lefkara -the «kentitria» -and
the male embroideries’ merchant of Lefkara –the «kentitaris».
For the past century Lefkara have become world famous
as the homeland of embroideries. Indeed, the peculiarities
and the technique of the embroideries that are manufactured
in Lefkara have contributed to shaping a form of needlecraft
with a special style that has now been established and
named as «Lefkaritiko Kentima» (Embroidery of Lefkara)
or simply «Lefkaritiko». Unfortunately, many of the
old designs have stopped being produced -because of
the difficulty in execution and of the time necessary
for their manufacture -at the risk of a complete disappearance
of the traditional needlecraft’s technique.
Today’s ambition is to train and create perfect needlewomen
by conveying in a simple manner the wealth of tradition,
which was left as a legacy from generation to generation,
and through everyone’s contribution to its continuance.
The first embroideries
of Lefkara
Through
the embroideries of Lefkara that are extant, the continuation
and the evolution of the “asproploumia”
(white, embroidered ornaments with cotton-thread) is
made clearly visible.
The first embroideries of Lefkara are made with the
same manufacture ingredients as the asproploumia,
that is, they are made entirely of cotton coming from
local, hand-made, woven, thick fabric.
Later on the “kampri”
(or “hases”) was used -a thin, imported fabric –as well
as the “bakaris”, (cotton-thread - bobbin). Around 1913
they begin using the local, linen fabric from Zodia
and Astromeritis and the linen threads, which they span
and whitened for that purpose, when making the embroideries
of Lefkara. Along with the use of linen, people in Lapithos
and Karavas begin weaving ‘Lefkaritika’ using local,
silk fabrics and with silk threads.
There is a diversification of the “Lefkaritiko” style
in these designs. The silk embroideries are done with
more “anevata”, “gemota” designs (kind
of satin-stitch embroidery that is more raveled) and
are most suited for cutting and removing a small number
of threads. In their final form the designs resemble
the results of the “Lefkaritiko” style but present differences
in the manner of their constitution. In the case of
“straogazo” (kind of stitch without ravels),
apart from the difference in technique, there is also
a difference in the final result.
In
all the types of embroideries there is a uniformity
of fabric and thread that creates a perfect joining
of the materials with the embroidery
The first, old embroideries of Lefkara preserve the
following elements that come from the asproploumia:
a. The various types of “gazia” -plural,
“silk back-stitches” -(“Venetian”,
“paragazi” {side-stitch}, “donti
tou kattou” {cat’s tooth}, and others),
which are used only for the boundary setting and completion
of the “ploumia” (ornaments).
b. The geometrical shapes that evolve
and find a continuation through the more composite and
complex designs, the “potamoi” (“rivers”).
c. The “kopta” (basic embroidery designs)
that are enriched through new shapes in different sizes.
d. The stitches that are completed
by new ones(“gemoti”, ”trypyti”,
“deti”).
The various types of “gazia” done in
the “asproploumia“ and the lace embroideries
of Lefkara are created by raveling threads in the woof
or the warp of the fabric.
Depending on the design, the threads are separated into
pairs, tied together or plaited. Their width ranges
from 3 millimeters to two centimeters.
From “asproploumia” to
“lefkaritika”
The
“lefkaritiko” lace embroidery has its roots in the local,
white embroideries or “asproploumia
done with the needle”, embroideries manufactured throughout
Cyprus –from Pafos to Karpasia.
Today the asproploumia are no longer
produced and the old ones that are still extant are
made of local, thick, cotton fabric that is hand-made
and cotton threads, which they span for this purpose.
The designs of the asproploumia are
simple, usually geometric, without any details. They
are limited and the same ones are repeated throughout
the whole range of the embroidery. Their main characteristic
is the cutting and removal of threads from the fabric,
the use of a limited number of stitches, and the making
of “gazia” in a number of variations.
The “gazia” usually end, complete,
and set the boundaries of the designs in the asproploumia.
All these characteristics are transferred to the lace-embroideries
of Lefkara, which start taking their own, particular
form.
In Lefkara the technique of the asproploumia,
which is improved and diversified according to the skillfulness
of each needlewoman, is preserved.
At
the same time, the lace-embroidery of Lefkara is also
enriched by the technique of the «Venise» lace, which
becomes known in Cyprus during the era of the Venetian
Domination (1489-1571). Through this lace-technique
the needlewomen of Lefkara create designs upon the cut
fabric and change them – so as to adapt them to the
area upon which they will weave, in accordance with
their imagination, their artistry, and their skillfulness.
In this manner, designs are created that are unique.
These designs are named “pittota“ and
they include the “gyroulota” (“circular”),
the “liminota” (“striped”), and the
“kappoudes” ().
Of course, apart from creating the lace inside the “kopta”
openings (openings for ornaments made in a special way)
on the fabric, they also placed laces upon the fabric
that they stitched separately.
With the rich experience acquired through the “asproploumia”,
the emergence of lace, its application onto the fabric,
and the addition of new “gemota” design
elements –taken from nature and the environment –the
“lefkaritiko” lace embroidery comes to life.
Starting from Lefkara, the small village of the Larnaca
district from which the lace embroideries took their
name, they become known in a number of countries.
According to tradition, the renowned painter of the
Renaissance, Leonardo Da Vinci, visited Cyprus during
this era and took with him a lace embroidery when he
left, which he gave as a gift for the High Altar of
the «Duomo» Cathedral of Milan.
This tradition was kept until today and came to life
again on the 19th of October 1986. On this day of the
main altar’s consecration in the «Duomo» Cathedral in
Milan, the Community of Lefkara donated an embroidered
tablecloth that was made in Lefkara, in memory and as
a continuation of this tradition. Through this event,
tradition is linked to the present reality.
By
the end of the previous century the inhabitants of Lefkara
visit the cities of neighboring countries, wherever
the Greek element was present -Alexandria, Cairo, Smyrna
(Izmir), Constantinople –and make the lave embroideries
of Lefkara known. Through Greece they are transferred
throughout Europe, in the Scandinavian countries, and
in America. The merchants of Lefkara –“kentitarides”-
traveled to or stayed in Europe and roamed from house
to house, selling and making their embroideries known,
while the needlewomen of Lefkara –“ploumarisses”
–remained in the village, organizing the production.
In
this way their name becomes well known and the lace
embroideries of Lefkara reach –in the beginning of the
century, from 1900 until 1930 –a point of perfection
in terms of the combination of technique and the end
result.
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